A spring ride to Tapolca

Although I’ve spent plenty of time around Lake Balaton, I usually travel there by car—usually along the familiar curve of the M7, with a podcast playing and a boot full of supplies for the weekend. But this week, I’m doing something different. I’m taking the Kék Hullám train from Budapest-Déli to Tapolca – my first time trying this route. And as it happens, I’m not the only thing that’s changing direction. With a set of new Hungary train changes in effect this spring, the railway system itself seems to be undergoing a quiet transformation.

It’s early May, so no sunflower fields just yet. But the landscape promises green hills, volcanic ridges, and a stillness that only exists before the season kicks off. The Kék Hullám departs every two hours from 07:12 to 19:12, taking just over three hours to reach Tapolca. Tickets now range from 3,100 to 3,600 HUF, depending on class and booking method.

The name Kék Hullám means “Blue Wave”, a gentle nod to the waters of Lake Balaton. The line passes through Balatonalmádi, Balatonfüred, Aszófő, and Badacsony, with several stretches offering open views of the lake just beyond the trees or beside the track. The train is known for its heritage and retro-style locomotives, including M41 and NOHAB locomotives, which are popular among rail enthusiasts.

When I went to check the train times, I found more than a timetable. Buried in the details were a series of new MÁV updates for 2025: automatic refunds for delays, on-board cleaning crews, and a soon-to-launch app feature that might just make travel a little more civilised. Whether you’re a local commuter or heading to the countryside for a break, these Hungary train changes could affect how—and why—you travel this year.

Hungary train changes: What’s different in 2025?

As of this spring, MÁV (Hungary’s national railway company) has introduced several changes aimed at improving the passenger experience. Some are already in effect, and others are due later this year. Here’s what you need to know:

1. Automatic refunds for delays over 20 minutes

Let’s start with the big one. From June 1st, passengers will receive a 50% refund of the ticket price if their MÁV or Volán journey is delayed by 20 minutes or more.

  • If you bought your ticket online, the refund will be automatically returned to your bank account—no form-filling or paperwork required.

  • If you bought it from a machine or in person, you’ll be able to claim the refund at the station after your journey.

It’s not quite the Swiss standard of punctuality, but it’s a start—and a welcome one at that.

2. Discounts for regular passengers with poor luck

Season ticket holders will benefit from a new delay-based discount scheme. If your train is delayed five times in a single month, you’ll get 10% off your next monthly pass.

That’s not to say we’re rooting for delays—but if you’re commuting daily and spending half your life at Kelenföld, at least there’s now a modest reward for your patience.

3. Permanent cleaning staff on all InterCity trains

As of April 1st, all InterCity services now have dedicated cleaning staff on board. That means loos that are less medieval by the time you reach your destination, and carriages that might not be carpeted in breadcrumbs by lunch.

It’s a practical change—and one that shows MÁV is beginning to acknowledge that comfort isn’t just about arriving on time, but about how one arrives.

4. A new app update is coming (but we don’t know much yet)

The final item on the list is more cryptic. MÁV has announced that a “surprising new development” is coming to the official app sometime this year. They haven’t revealed any details—only that it’s in testing, and likely to roll out in the near future.

Will it improve journey tracking? Make refund claims easier? Allow us to see real-time delays without needing psychic powers or Facebook comments? One can only hope.

What this means for your next journey

If you’re travelling by train in Hungary in 2025—whether it’s a regular commute, a countryside escape, or a scenic meander to Lake Balaton—these changes affect you.

The delay insurance is particularly noteworthy. For the first time, Hungary’s railway is publicly committing to some form of compensation for unreliable service. It’s not perfect, and it won’t make your train arrive faster, but it’s a tangible step towards passenger accountability.

And for those of us who still buy tickets in person or prefer paper copies, it’s worth noting that the refunds aren’t just for digital natives. You’ll still be able to claim, just with a bit more effort.

The improvements to cleanliness are another small but meaningful change. While I’ve never expected a first-class lounge experience on Hungarian trains, it’s refreshing to know that InterCity routes are getting some consistent attention. The Kék Hullám may not be glamorous, but it deserves to be clean—and now, it might be.

MÁV-START map of the Kék Hullám train line running from Budapest-Déli to Tapolca, with stations along Lake Balaton’s northern shore including Balatonfüred and Badacsony. © MÁV Zrt. 2022.

Official map of the Kék Hullám InterCity train route from Budapest-Déli to Tapolca, showing stops along Lake Balaton’s northern shore. Source: © MÁV-START / MÁV Zrt.

The bottom line: a railway system slowly waking up

I’ve lived in Hungary long enough to temper optimism with realism. For every policy announcement, there’s usually a bureaucratic quirk, a broken escalator, or a delay due to “technical difficulties.” But this round of Hungary train ticket changes in 2025 actually feels like progress.

For years, Hungarian rail passengers have been asked to lower their expectations. Now, for once, it seems the system is trying to raise its own standards instead.

So yes, I’ll be taking the Kék Hullám this week for the very first time – armed with a book, a sandwich, and far too much enthusiasm for train station architecture. I’ll share the highlights (and any surprises) on Instagram and TikTok later this week, so if you’ve ever wondered what the northern route to Tapolca really looks like, you’ll get a front-row seat.

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