Hungary Heatwave: Surviving 35°C Without a Lake

Of course we chose next week to stay in Budapest.

While much of the city decamps to Lake Balaton for cooling swims and fröccs-fuelled sunsets, Andrew and I will be in Pest. Working. Sweating. Mostly wondering why our calendar is suddenly full of meetings when we could be at our place in the Balaton Highlands, enjoying a semi-chilled rosé and the occasional dip in a lake that’s currently a respectable 26 degrees.

Instead, we’re on the flat side of the city where trees are sparse, the pavement radiates like a stovetop, and my carefully chosen linen shirt has fused to my back before 9 a.m. Welcome to the Hungary heatwave.

So, How Hot Is It Really?

The short answer? Very. The long answer? Here’s the real data:

HungaroMet predicts a strong warming by the beginning of next week, with maximum temperatures of 35 degrees on Monday, 34 on Tuesday, 35 on Wednesday , and even 36 degrees on Thursday.

• Monday: 30–35°C. Mostly sunny with brisk southerly and southwesterly winds. A few clouds drifting in from the northwest by afternoon, and the risk of thunderstorms increases overnight.

• Tuesday: Slightly cooler in the north thanks to a passing cold front. Expect highs between 28–34°C, still windy, with a bit more cloud cover.

• Wednesday: The heat returns full force – another 35°C day.

• Thursday: Peak heatwave madness at a blazing 36°C.

I don’t know who upset the weather gods, but I’d like a word.

Hungary Is Getting Hotter and Permanently So

This isn’t just June madness. Hungary is warming. Between 1907 and 2017, the country’s average temperature rose by about 1.15 °C – faster than the global increase (+0.9 °C) – with summers heating up particularly sharply.

Model projections for 2021–2050 show seasonal warming of 1–3 °C, rising to 2–6 °C by the end of the century and the highest increases are expected in summer. By the late 21st century, summers in Hungary could resemble those of the Mediterranean today  In other words, 30 °C plus days are becoming the summer norm.

That’s why planning how, and where, you live in Hungary matters more than ever, especially with the reality of a longer, more intense Hungary heatwave season each year.

Pest Side Problems

Let’s talk microclimates. Specifically, the fact that Pest becomes a slow-cooking casserole during a heatwave.

Unlike Buda, where you can at least loiter beneath actual trees or escape uphill for a breeze, Pest offers full sun and zero shame. The buildings trap heat, the air goes still, and the closest thing to shade is the shadow cast by your own will to live. This is not a drill. This is June.

And when your week involves back-to-back meetings (as ours does), hopping between overheated taxis and over-perfumed lift lobbies, your options for relief are… limited.

Our Favourite Budapest Heat Hack

That’s why we have a secret weapon: Gellért Baths. Not the indoor thermal bit (lovely in winter, but I’m not stewing myself in June). No, we head straight for the wave pool.

It’s gloriously retro and full of locals. The waves come every hour on the hour, complete with a buzzer that sounds like it was stolen from a 1960s fire drill. We’ve mastered the timing: arrive 15 minutes before the wave cycle, claim a semi-shady lounger, and don’t think about work until the air horn goes off.

It’s not Balaton. But when Pest is boiling and you’ve got thirty minutes to reset your soul between Zoom calls, it’ll do very nicely.

Hydration and Other Survival Tactics

You don’t need me to tell you to drink water. But you might need me to remind you that coffee doesn’t count, and that if your plastic water bottle has turned tepid by 10 a.m., it’s time to locate your nearest COOP, ALDI, or LIDL with a decent cold soda fridge.

Here are a few of my other go-to survival moves during a Hungary heatwave:

• Work Early, Siesta Later: If you can, shift your workday. Do emails at 6:30 a.m. and hide in front of a fan mid-afternoon.

• Skip the Streetcars: Old trams are charming until you’re stuck on one at peak heat, pressed against a window that hasn’t opened since Orbán’s first term.

• Freeze Your Fruit: Grapes, cherries, banana slices – cut and freeze them.

• Reconsider Cooking: My oven’s on strike. It’s salad and cold soup until further notice.

A Quick Word About Heat and Pets

Let me just say this: If I’m hot, Sümi is hotter. And she’s only two kilos. We don’t take her out after 9 a.m. or before 8 p.m. and she gets a frozen toy and her own fan. If your dog has a short snout, dark fur, or is just generally dramatic, keep walks short and make sure their paws aren’t sizzling on pavement.

You can find pet-safe cooling mats online, and I’ve even seen a few at Fressnapf and local markets.

The Silver Lining? It Doesn’t Last Long

That’s the beauty of a Hungarian heatwave. It arrives suddenly, scorches everything in sight, and then clears off with a dramatic gust of wind and the faint smell of fried ambition. By the time the next weekend hits, we’ll all be moaning about how we “actually miss the heat” and how “this wind is ruining the terrace vibe.”

Don’t fall for it. Keep your fan plugged in.

New Here? Or Just Getting Started?

If you’re still figuring out whether Hungary’s the right fit, I’ve created a free Quick Start guide to help. It covers the basics of moving, buying property, and navigating Hungarian life without the overwhelm.

Already bought the full guide? You’re covered. 🙂